Lapping or Grinding In Engine Valves

How To Use Valve Grinders and Paste.

When fitting new valves initially place the new valve loosely in its seating without refitting the valve springs. Number the valve and its corresponding location before commencing the grinding operation (a bottle of Tipp-Ex correction fluid is ideal for this), to ensure that once the valves are ground, they are matched to their seatings. Taking the valve grinder, choose the rubber end which fits the valve head.
Our valve grinder kit is ideal for this; click HERE for more information.
Then place the flat palms of both hands either side of the vertical shaft and create a rotating action of the valve by rolling the shaft between the hands. When the limits of this rolling motion are reached, simply reverse the procedure and the valve rotates in the opposite direction. By constantly repeating this procedure the valve is ground into its seating. Start with coarse paste then move onto fine to get a gas tight seal and an efficient engine. Remember to add a little light oil to the valve stem to make grinding in easier. Keep checking the valve and seat faces during the grinding in operation until you see a matt gray unbroken and even band around the valve.

IMPORTANT:-
It is important to use only a small amount of valve grinding paste which should be applied around the valve face where it is in contact with the cylinder block valve seating.
For detailed and concise instructions on the correct use of this tool and paste, please refer to the vehicle manufacturer's workshop manual.

How to change your engine oil

How to Change Your Oil
What you will need:
1. An oil filter spanner
2. The correct size of sump plug spanner or socket
3. Empty container
4. A note of the engine capacity
5. Some rags
6. New oil
7. New oil filter
8. A plastic or metal pan. Click HERE for the ideal container
9. Wheel blocks
10. Safety glasses
11. A jack and a pair of axel stands or a pair of car ramps.

"How often do I need to change my oil?" you ask. Most manufacturers' recommendations are once every 7,500 miles, depending on the car and driving conditions. Most people change it once every 6,000 miles. Conventional wisdom says that changing more often is better.
We recommend every 3,000 to 3,500 miles if your car is use on short weekend journeys and keeping clean oil in the crankcase is the best way to keep your engine running for a well for a long time.
Make sure that your car is parked on a level grade, rather than on any sort of hill or inclined driveway. Warm oil drains much easier than cold oil so let your car run for about 10 minutes before you drain the oil. After the engine is nice and warm, jack up the car and place your axle stands under the chassis to support the vehicle. If you have car ramps, drive the car onto the ramps. In either case, block the rear wheels to prevent it rolling. Set the hand brake and if you have an automatic transmission, put in Park.
NEVER GO UNDER A CAR SUPPORTED BY THE JACK ALONE! SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH CAN RESULT!
Watch out for hot oil, it's a good idea to wear safety glasses when changing your oil.
• Grab your drain can and spanner and slide under the car. Locate the oil drain plug on the sump.
• Place your drain can under the plug and unscrew the plug (counter-clockwise) with the spanner. Make sure you have a good fit and do not round off the drain plug. If it proves stubborn, get the proper size socket and ratchet or a 6-point box spanner.
• As soon as you completely unscrew the drain plug, the oil will come out in a rush, so be careful. Chances are the plug will fall into the pan along with the oil (if you are using our special drain can this is not a problem as the plug will land on the tray and can be retrieved once the oil has drained in). If not you will have to fish it out later.
When all the oil has drained into the can, fish out the plug and check the sealing washer carefully as this can be a source of an unsightly leak later. If all fine clean the plug and washer ensuring there is no grit on the washer and threads and screw it back in. Tighten it firmly, but not so hard that you strip the threads the manufacturers’ workshop manual should give the correct torque for this and it’s a good idea to adhere to this is possible.
Always change the filter whenever you change the oil. There is no sense in changing the oil and leaving dirty oil in the old filter.
• You'll be able to get to the old filter from either above or below the car. Earlier cars such as the MGA MGB MGC Ford Cortina Triumph TR6 Humber Hawk Snipe Imperial Jaguar XK 140 the Rover 60, 75, 80, 90, 95, 100 and 110 mostly had the paper element type of filter fitted. Later cars such as the Ford Capri Granada Escort Triumph Spitfire were canister type filters. Depending on the type of filter you have follow the correct procedure below:-

Canister type filter:-
Place the oil filter spanner around the filter's body. There are two types of oil filter spanner, a cup type and a strap type. The cup type fits over the end of the filter like a socket and has a 3/8" or 1/2" square hole for fitting on a ratchet. The strap type fits around the body of the filter and will work on any filter (this type of spanner can be bought at our shop.) With the strap type, grab the filter as close to the threaded end as you can. Place the drain can under the filter to catch any leakage as the filter is removed.
• The old filter may be a little tough to crack loose due to the force on the rubber sealing ring, but once it does, it will spin right off. Unscrew it completely and put it aside, remember it will be full of hot oil. Wipe the surface of the oil filter housing to make sure the old oil filter gasket did not stick to it and that it is clean and dirt free.
• Take some of the new oil and coat the sealing ring gasket of the new filter with it. This will insure the new gasket will slip into place properly. If the new filter is installed straight up and down it’s a good idea to fill it fist with clean engine oil. This will prevent the drop in oil pressure while the filter fills otherwise.
• Install the new filter. Tighten the filter firmly; spin it hand tight and then another 1/4 turn by hand. Do not over tighten it or use the oil filter spanner.

Paper element type:-
• On top of the engine locate the oil fill cap. It may say "Oil" or "Oil Fill" on it. Most of the time it's on top of a valve cover. Unscrew it and pour in the proper amount and type of oil recommended for your vehicle. Look in your owners' manual for the proper type of oil and the correct capacity. After you have the oil in, replace the oil fill cap and wipe up any oil you might have spilled.
• Start the engine and with the engine running, carefully check around the filter and the drain plug area for any leaks. A leak will appear as some seepage at the oil filter connection or on the filter. If there is a leak, tighten up the oil filter a little more. If no leaks are found, shut off the engine and jack the car down. Once the car is on level ground again, recheck the oil and make sure it is at the full mark. Do not over fill the oil that will cause engine damage.
Now that you're all done, take the used motor oil to your local oil care bank and have it recycled. To find your local oil disposal point telephone the Oil Care Bank Free on 0800 66 3366
While you're waiting for the oil to drain is a good time to nose around under the car and make sure everything is in good shape.

How and where to use Waxoyl

ENGINE/BATTERY COMPARTMENT
(a) Spray top of distributor plus the leads, coil and earth connections. This waterproofs ignition and engine which aids starling in cold, damp weather conditions.
(b) Waxoyl is ideal for use an battery trays, which are especially vulnerable to rest.

CHASSIS
(a) Remove carpet or fold back from areas below the doors, retain all fittings. (b) Lift out rear seat. (c) Remove tape or rubber plugs from pre-drilled access holes (d) Inject Waxoyl via access holes. (NB. on some vehicles, particularly commercial vehicles, access holes are located externally, underneath the vehicle.)
NOTE: The chassis is the most important area to be rust proofed
as the whole strength of the vehicle depends on these hollow beams. Rust in this area can lead to MOT failure.

UNDERNEATH THE CAR
(a) Ensure the whole of the underbody is sprayed, including suspension mounting joints, jacking points, brake pipes and hoses, shock absorber bushes and mountings plus the fuel tank. Do not apply Waxoyl to plastic fuel tanks. (b) Pay particular attention to the hallow chassis members and the gap between the fuel tank top and the car floor. (c) Once a year it is recommended to check for rust on areas that may have been missed on damaged when the car is serviced. (d) For maximum protection, brush on Underbody Seal with added Waxoyl to areas susceptible to high impact damage.

DOOR PILLARS
(a) Remove door switch.
(b) Spray Waxoyl into door pillars.

INSIDE DOOR PANELS
(a) Remove doer panels, fir) Spray Waxoyl, paying particular attention to all corners. (c) Spray window mechanism, taking care to avoid speakers and sound deadening panels.

WHEEL ARCHES
(a) Protect brakes with a polythene beg while spraying wheel arches.
(b) Ensure brake cables, brake pipes, fuel pipes, shock absorber mounting points and exhaust brackets are thoroughly coated with Waxoyl.

EXHAUST SYSTEMS
(a) Spray to prevent corrosion of brackets and hangers.
DO NOT APPLY to exhaust pipes, baffle boxes or manifold.

1 .Waxoyl should be warmed by standing the container in hot water for no less than 30 minutes. If the product has thickened due to settlement, it may also be necessary to add 1 0% white spirit.
2. Shake can well before use.
3. Apply lightly by sprayer, do not saturate surfaces.
4. For use with the High Pressure Sprayer Extension Probe it is advisable to thin Waxoyl with 10% 20% white spirit to enable an effective 360° action.
Waxoyl should be spray applied using the Waxoyl High Pressure Sprayer for fast effective coverage.
Wash all equipment thoroughly immediately after each application with white spirit to remove any residual Waxoyl; then clean thoroughly with hot, soapy water before storage.
Storage: Protect from frost and extremes of temperature.

Waxoyl is available in both spray or aerosol formats (5 Litre flat can available in black as well as clear). Click HERE for a full range of Waxoyl products.

CAUTION: Certain stressed plastic body moldings and rubber trim may be adversely affected by application of Waxoyl. Do not allow Waxoyl to come into contact with these items. If contact does occur remove excess Waxoyl with a cloth and thoroughly wash the area with warm, soapy water.

OTHER APPLICATIONS:
Keeps farm machinery
mechanisms moving freely,
Protects wheel arches and
trailer chassis from corrosion.
Prevents corrosion of difficult
to paint areas, valves, pipes,
filters, nuts and bolts.
Lubricates brake linkages,
locks, hinges.
Prevents chassis corrosion.
Keeps winches, pivots
and diesel tanks lubricated
and rust free,
Prevents bad contacts,
corrosion of battery boxes.

Using Spot Weld Cutters

This spot weld cutter is made to cut through spot welds holding two pieces of sheet metal together, as found in most wings sills and all other panels fitted to a large amount of vehicles. It features an adjustable pilot which allows either both or just the top piece of metal to be cut.
Method 1 (CUTS TOP LAYER OF METAL ONLY)
Turn the set screw clockwise until it stops. This increases the pressure on the spring-loaded pilot which prevents the cutter from penetrating the second layer of sheet metal. The remaining spot weld can then be ground down with an angle grinder ready to accept the new panel.

METHOD 2 (CUTS THROUGH BOTH LAYERS OF METAL)
Turn the set screw counter clockwise until the head is even with the top of the tool this decreases the pressure on the spring-loaded pilot and allows both layers of metal to be cut through.

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
1.Adjust. Spot weld Cutter as outlined above.
2.Install Spot weld Cutter on an air or electric drill.
3.Drill a small pilot hole or center-punch the weld at its center.
4.Lubricate the work surface with cutting oil to extend cutter’s life.
5.Locate the pilot point on the work piece.
6.With drill motor running, apply pressure until cutter nearly
contacts the surface. Hold for 2 to 4 seconds to locate the pilot Recommended speed is 900 rpm or less. Higher speeds can cause the cutting head to fracture.
7.Apply additional pressure to start the cut, and slightly more pressure to complete the cut.

USEFULL TIPS FOR BEST RESULTS
1. Always bring tool into contact with the work piece squarely.
2. Keep the pilot point sharp
Always wear safety goggles when this or any other power tool.

How To Change & Refill Oil In Hydraulic Trolley & Bottle Jacks

1. Have a supply of good quality jack oil. Click here for suitable oil. Do not use brake fluid, or power steering fluid, this is not suitable and can be dangerous.
2. Remove the cover plate off the top of the jack.
3. Find the oil filler in your jack. This sometimes takes the form of a rubber plug in the top of the cylinder, or a screw in plug. If your jack has a screw under a rubber cover labelled "do not adjust", leave it alone. This isn't the filler.
4. Remove the filler cap, and also remove the release valve completely from the jack body. Be careful, there may be a ball bearing in the bottom acting as the seal.
5. Up-end the jack, and let the fluid drain out from the release valve hole. Drain into a suitable container and dispose of it responsibly afterwards. Occasionally put the jack back on a level surface and pump the handle very gently a couple of times, this moves the fluid around. Repeat until no more fluid drains out.
6. Clean the release valve and replace it, but do not tighten fully.
7. Now you have to decide how much oil to fill the jack with. Properly, you would measure the fluid you removed, and replace with the same quantity, or slightly more, to allow for leaks and evaporation. However if you haven't measured it, this following method works well:

a. Put some oil in through the filler, just a little - the container should have a long neck to help this process, but a little funnel may be required.
b. With the release valve still not tightened, pump a few times to distribute the oil. You will hear bubbling initially, but it should stop. You don't need to replace the filler plug during this part of the process, or the next step.
c. Tighten the release valve, and pump up the jack. It will probably not pump up to its full height initially. After a few pumps, it will stop lifting, and you will hear bubbling again. Loosen the release valve and let the jack retract.

Repeat steps a-c until the jack pumps up to its full height. Normal fills are around 100-125ml of oil. Quantity will depend on the make and capacity of the jack.

8. Replace the filler plug, and clean up any oil spills. Your jack is now ready for use again. Take this opportunity to oil all its pivots with some engine oil or similar, and give it a clean.

How To Re Charge Air Conditioning Systems

Today dispensing refrigerant is as simple as pressing a button. You just connect the hose to the low-pressure port, press the button on the can to fill (to "charge") and release to stop. With Measure & Charge, releasing the button will automatically give you a pressure measurement on the in-line gauge (which is re-usable). Both let you store unused refrigerant for later. Both contain the appropriate proportions of refrigerant and oil, as well as System-Safe leak sealer. See full instructions on this site or on the can.

Trigger Dispensing
With the Quick Charge charging gun (QC-1CS and QCK-2CS), you simply connect the hose to the low-pressure port, screw a can of refrigerant into the Quick Charge, squeeze the trigger to dispense and release to stop. Quick Charge will automatically give you a pressure reading on the built-in gauge. Quick Charge is completely re-usable. See full instructions on this site or on the package.

Direct Charge Dispensing
With High Mileage Top-Off (HMT-1DC), you simply press the direct charge fitting onto the low-pressure port to fill 6oz. of refrigerant & oil (in the proper proportion). Great when all you need is a small amount of refrigerant to top off your system. We recommend using our EZ Gauge (GEZ-1) to measure pressure before and after charging to ensure proper pressure for peak cooling. See full instructions on this site or on the can.

Screw-in Can Tap Dispensing
Several of our recharging kits use the traditional method of dispensing, tapping a can. These kits are models RKR-7, RKR-5, RGM-134, GBM-134, and MB-134. This method involves screwing a can tap with hose onto a can of refrigerant, partly unscrewing to dispense, and screwing in again to stop. With the RKR-7, RGM-134 and GBM-134, you can check pressure with the in-line gauge. The RKR-7 and RKR-5 can be used in two ways: to either retrofit (convert) an A/C system using R-12 refrigerant to a system that can use R-134a refrigerant, or to recharge a system that already uses R-134a. See full instructions on the package.
Click the link below to watch the how to video from Interdynamics :
A/C Recharging Methods Video

How To Install Inertia Reel & Automatic Seat Belts

INSTALLING STATIC SEAT BELTS
1. Locate anchorage points in car. Diagrams 1-3 show typical configurations.
2. Install belt referring to appropriate anchorage diagrams 6 -11.

BUCKLE WEBBING LENGTH ADJUSTMENT
(End fittings type C)
The length of the buckle webbing on rear seat belts should be adjusted so that the buckle is clear of the seat cushion & positioned just on or below the hip.
After adjustment ensure that the webbing is pulled neatly and tightly to eliminate any loops.

If the buckle is required to be adjusted to its maximum length, the free end of the sewn-over webbing should be no less than 10mm (diagram 9).

USERS AND MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS :
Fastening the Belt: Insert belt tongue into buckle, a positive locking 'click' indicates correct assembly.
Releasing the Belt: Press the release button, the tongue will be ejected clear of the locking mechanism within the buckle.
Belt Adjustment: Adjusting the Belt - Fasten the belt and adjust length to suit. The lap section should be comfortably tight.
To Tighten (shorten) the Belt - Pull free end of webbing through adjuster until required adjustment is reached.
To Loosen (lengthen) the Belt - Tilt the adjuster by means of the grip and slide it along the strap until suitably adjusted.

INSTALLING AUTOMATIC INERTIA REEL SEAT BELTS
Please read these instructions completely before fitting or using. No alterations should be made to the installation or the assembies. If in doubt consult the manufacturer.
1. Locate anchorage points in car to diagram 1 to 6. These show typical applications.
2. Install belt as shown referring to appropriate anchorage diagrams. (A, B & C).
3.Adjust retractor locking mechanism to suit installation position as described below. (See diagrams 8 + 9).
4. Fit protective cover on retractor by locating on tie bars and snapping into place.
THE 50mm x 36mm PLATE MUST BE FITTED UNDER THE HEAD OF THE RETRACTOR FIXING BOLT.
In some instances it may be necessary to mount the retractor on a bracket as shown in diagram 10 in order that the retractor can be offset to avoid bodywork etc.
If it is difficult to extract the webbing before installation follow these steps:-
(i) Ensure that the reel is perfecty upright (with webbing coming out at the top) as shown in diagram 7, arrows upright. This can be done in the vehicle or another convenient position i.e. against the wall.
(ii) With your thumb and fingers slowly, but firmly, wind an extra inch of the webbing on to the reel.
(iii) Slowly, but firmly, pull the webbing out of the reel.This must be done smoothly to avoid locking the mechanism.
During this operation the reel must remain upright.
Click HERE for a full range of seat belts

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